Cashmere – no two goats are alike! (part 2).
Differentiating the quality of cashmere fabric.
Cashmere is a highly sought-after luxury fiber known for its softness, warmth, and durability. However, not all cashmere is created equal. What makes a fast-fashion sweater a fraction of the price of a luxury piece? The quality of cashmere can vary significantly depending on factors such as fiber length, thickness, origin, and processing methods. Understanding these differences can help consumers make informed decisions when purchasing cashmere garments, blankets, textiles and decorative accessories.
1. Fiber Length and Thickness
One of the primary indicators of cashmere quality is the length and thickness of the fibers. High-quality cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, particularly those found in Mongolia, China, and Nepal. The best fibers are long (typically over 34mm) and fine (measuring between 14-16 microns in diameter). Longer fibers result in stronger, more durable yarn that resists wear and maintains its softness over time. In contrast, shorter fibers tend to create a rougher texture and are more prone to pilling.
2. Source of the Cashmere
The origin of cashmere significantly influences its quality. Mongolian and Himalayan cashmere are considered some of the finest due to the extreme climate conditions in these regions, which encourage the growth of longer and finer fibers. Chinese cashmere, while still high quality, tends to be slightly thicker, while Iranian and Afghan cashmere often feature shorter fibers, making them less durable and slightly coarser. If unsure, always check the label for source of fiber or where the product was manufactured.
3. Processing and Manufacturing
The method by which cashmere is processed and spun into yarn also impacts its quality. High-end manufacturers use traditional dehairing methods to remove coarse guard hairs, leaving only the softest fibers. The spinning process occurs with minimal chemical intervention to preserve the fiber’s natural properties. It’s important to know that lower-quality cashmere may be blended with other materials or over-processed, which reduces the fabric softness and negatively affects durability and longevity.
4. Number of Plies and Weave
The ply of cashmere refers to the number of yarn strands twisted together. A 2-ply cashmere sweater is generally more durable and maintains its shape better than a single-ply version. The weave density is another quality indicator—a tighter weave means better insulation and a softer feel. Lightweight, loosely woven cashmere may feel soft initially but is more likely to lose shape and pill quickly.
5. Softness and Hand Feel
A good way to test cashmere quality is by touch. High-quality cashmere should feel soft and slightly fluffy without being overly fuzzy. If the cashmere feels too silky or overly processed, it may have been chemically treated to enhance softness, which can reduce longevity. Conversely, if it feels coarse, it may contain lower-grade fibers or too many guard hairs.
6. Price vs. Quality
Price can be a good indicator of quality, but it’s not the only factor. Extremely cheap cashmere is often lower in quality and may not be 100% pure. Luxury brands often charge a premium for high-quality sourcing, ethical production, and careful craftsmanship. However, some mid-tier brands offer excellent cashmere at more reasonable prices by focusing on ethical and sustainable sourcing without excessive markups.
When shopping for cashmere, consider fiber length, source, processing methods, ply count, and weave density to determine quality. Investing in high-quality cashmere ensures a longer lifespan, better warmth, and a more luxurious feel. Ultimately, understanding these differences, can help a consumer make informed choices at a price-point they can afford and enjoy the timeless elegance of premium cashmere garments and products which can last a lifetime.
